Final Egypt Post

Finishing our time in Egypt.  Yesterday was a long van ride from the desert back to Cairo.  We shared the van with the driver, his brother, his sister and his brother's wife.  The wife wore the full veil.  We weren't sure what to do or say as she sat their in the front seat staring ahead at the beginning of our ride.

Then, she turned around and said hi and told us she was pregnant and not feeling real well.  She moved to the back of the van to relax and we were on our way.  After we got out of town she removed here veil and chatted away with her cousin.

We still haven't figured our the head covering/veil situation.  They range from the very stylish, colorful veil, color coordinated with jeans and a flashy top, all the way to a full black burka type arrangement, some without even a slit for the eyes.

The pregnant gal seemed quite comfortable without the veil on in the car, talking to us, but when we stopped midway for a bathroom break, on went the veil again, and as we approached Cairo, again the veil went back on.

We surmised that since I was a married, older man, that the veil wasn't necessary in the van.  Haven't researched this yet!  Anyway, she was very pleasant, and enjoyed talking to us whether or not the veil was on.  Our prejudices continue to be swept away!

The evening finished with a Nile River Dinner Cruise.  Expected a traditional menu, got a "cruise-style" buffet dinner with loud music, not real pleasant until the Sufi "whirling dervish" showed up!  A lot of neat history here, but the bottom line is this guy whirled non stop for about 20 minutes; quite a show.

He was quite friendly.

 

Three long flights back home.  The real world has reintruded itself.  As we were approaching Heathrow Airport, they announced that if any of us were in India during the recent terrorist activity that law enforcement would be at our gate to interview us.  And, indeed, there was a SWAT team of sorts of 6 men awaiting our arrival.  We were one of the last to leave the plane, none of the passengers were in conversation.

 

We hope you enjoyed reading our Egypt blog.  Our trip was a study in contrasts.  From the crush of 20 million people in Cairo, to the gold artifacts found in the 3000 year old tombs in the Valley of the Kings.  From the hustle of the Red Sea resorts to the solitude and barrenness of the White Desert.

We found the Egyptian people like everyone else on this planet.  Doing the best with what they have, hoping for even a little improvement in the future. Looking out for themselves and their families and appreciating and honoring their neighbors. 

We are currently flying at 36,000 above the Atlantic, preparing to reenter our busy lives.  What was striking throughout the last three weeks were people's comments, both Egyptian and travelers like us, of a hope for a better future.  Worldwide, we fight a diminished expectation for the future. The US economic debacle is indeed affecting people around the world. 

Almost without fail, when we tell people we are from America, we get a thumbs up.  People around the world like Americans, indeed, they want a healthy America.  Their expectations for the future are optimistic.  Their fear and mistrust from the last eight years was palatable.  But, they now share hope.  I hope they, and we won't be disappointed.

Sunday - The Black and White Deserts 2.0

Here is our camp in the White Desert. All shoes were accounted for, but the foxes did go through all our our trash and ate anything that wasn't foil or paper wrapping.  Our left over food that Abubuk placed 10 meters from the camp was licked clean.  They were busy last night.  Breakfast was a traditional Egyptian meal except for a special treat for Gloria and me....Twinkies!  Can't remember the last Twinkie I had, never did try them for breakfast. I do recommend them, (great with coffee!)

We were originally scheduled to go to Farafra Oasis, but Abubuk suggested that we not and check out some of his favorite places in the White Desert that few people see.  OK with us!

 

 

We literally have 100's more pictures of this incredible place.  We won't bore you with any more!  This definitely was the highlight of our trip!

Saturday - The Black and White Deserts

Abubuk picked us up in his Land Rover and we headed west into the desert.  Half our time was spent on the two lane asphalt highway, the other half among the hills and sand dunes.  Kinda a cross between jeeping and "sandmobiling".  Exciting for him, and us, most of the time!  We did go through one little oasis in our morning travels, quite primitive; he stopped to talk to a couple of teenagers, turned out to be his brother and cousin!  This is where Abubuk grew up.

We continued into the Black Desert.   Something hard to describe.  Many millennia ago, this was a very active volcanic area, 100's of cinder cones dotted the landscape.  And there was volcanic ejecta everywhere.  Small lava pebbles and stones.  But, what is so interesting is that subsequent to the volcanic activity, the sand had blown in and everything was layered with sand as well.  Quite a juxtaposition to have the black of the lava and the tan of the fine sand everywhere.  Hopeful the pictures can give you and idea what we saw.

As we were jeeping about we suddenly came upon a Land Rover with two guides and a couple camped at the base of a sand dune.  Turned out this is Fueli, Abubuk's buddy.  Fueli had forgot the pita bread so he had phoned Abubuk to bring some out to him.  Abubuk found them easily, indeed Abubuk said he has never gotten lost out here and new both the Black and White Desert well.  The couple was from Belgium, very nice to talk to.  This was their fourth trip to Egypt, they "winter here" in the desert  for 4 weeks and just move about camping.  "Too rainy in Belgium this time of year".

For lunch, we stopped at another small oasis, with a government well and pump.  A small "cafe" where they served us our routine fare of pita with different dips, vegetables and that great feta cheese.  Met a gal their from Sweden.  She had just finished a week of lecturing in Cairo, and was out for the day with a guide.

As we continued our off road adventure, we gained a bit of elevation, until we came upon a vista that took our breath away.  It was like a Monument Valley view, except instead of huge sandstone columns, these were made out of chalk!  Hundreds of  feet in height.  Again, I don't know if the picture will do it justice.  Really an incredible sight.  We then went careening down the sand dune descending into the White Desert.

The White desert is composed of millions of chalk columns scattered all about the desert, with sand amongst them.  Again, through the eons this was at one time a huge ocean, it evaporated leaving the chalk and the sand.  Truly otherworldly.

 

 

Evening was dinner then sitting around the fire.  This was a truly Egyptian meal.  Abubuk build a small fire, then with his cooking grate started a pot of rice and in another pot he put in his veges and his chicken.  Cooked them all up and chased it with fanta with bananas for desert.  Once of our best meals since we have been here.  But it wasn't over. 

Now, next to the fire, we started with tea time. Quite a ritual with two pots of water.  One for the leaves and sugar, (lots of sugar), the other for diluting and cleaning the little glasses.  They are similar to shot glasses but a bit larger. (No Starbucks sleeves here).  Once Abubuk deemed it worthy of sharing, in other words was it sweet enough, he, with flourish poured our cups.  Whoa, strong and sweet! 

Once that was finished, he added a bunch of mint to the steeping pot and more sugar, to prepare tea number II.  Same ritual.  Oh, in the meantime he has wrapped up sweet potatoes in foil and they were cooking in the fire as well.  So, the mint tea, again strong and sweet.  Final desert was the sweet potatoes.  They were great!

After all of this with a moonless night and a million stars, time for bed. We established a perimeter to keep the foxes at bay. We had already seen one by our suitcases.  They are notorious for taking one shoe.  We settled in for the night.  A pad, our sleep sheets and 4 camel blankets on top of us.  We stayed warm, but the camel blankets were so heavy, it was hard to move!  We slept well.

Friday - Bahariya Oasis

Leisurely breakfast by Mohammed. At 8AM, the appointed time, I found him in the reception alcove asleep in front of the TV, must have been watching American movies all night long.  I didn't wake him, we ended up having breakfast a bit after 9AM.

Abubuc and a buddy picked us up around 10AM for our morning tour of the tombs and mummies.  A bit backwoodsy with the excavations.  Not the same amount of government money is available here as in Luxor or Cairo.  A Bedouin hangs out in front of a sight, gives you a tour, all in Egyptian with lots of pointing, then hold out his hand for a tip.  Since we had already paid our fee to see the sights, the expected tip is routine but is getting a bit monotonous.  We give each one 2 Egyptian pounds, about 40 cents.  They seem satisfied.

No pictures are allowed and none really needed to be taken.  These were Phaoronic tombs, reused by the Romans.  Indeed, when the Romans did the mummification, they were a bit sloppy, not much work has been done beneath the wrappings, apparently the mummification process wasn't  real good, and not much left.

In the afternoon, we hit the "Roman Baths".  Again, not quite what they are labeled.  The government has sunk numerous wells to around 900 meters to extract the naturally hot water.  They go deeper, it is hotter, more shallow and it is cooler.  Pumps send it into irrigation pipes for the farmers.  The Romans did used the hot springs, but not as we do today.

That's me in the back, (the white guy) and Abubuk smiling on the right.  Soon after this picture was taken, he rinsed his hands and head, and did his 3PM prayers to Allah.

Our afternoon tour included the British Outpost on the highest bit of land in the oasis.  They used this as a lookout during WWII.  Rommel and his gang were out and about here. (See the movie "Patton" for details!)

Abubuk was a bit stressed tonight.  Turns out he had checked a French gal in today, but she wasn't to be found this evening.  She had told some people she was changing hotels, but they hadn't tracked her down yet.  No foul play, but we did find out that the "tourist police" (their real name), do keep track of all of us every night. 

One cultural note.  These oasis people love their Chinese motorcycles.  They really decorate them too.  Here is one with a fair amount of "bling".  Haven't got a good picture of one that is really decorated up.

This, however, is a more typical mode of transportation.

Off to the White Desert tomorrow and a night of camping.

Thursday - Thanksgiving in Egypt

A four hour van ride to the Bahariya Oasis. Traveled through absolutely desolate desert.  There are a five major oasis in the Egypt's 1.2 million square mile Western Desert, and they have been inhabited periodically since Pharonic times.

Their primary development was during the Roman times.  And, indeed, not too many years ago, they stumbled on a Roman Necrotorium that contained 10,000 mummies!

Gloria and I are the only ones in our "motel".  Definitely 1-star.  Mohammed is our host, his favorite things in the whole world are American movies!?  Especially Mission Impossible.  He was wearing a Disneyland straw hat and had on a Mafia tee-shirt.  Hmm.

This is the classic "shower-toilet combo".  No, you don't take a shower while you are on the toilet, but it does save some room.  Unfortunately, the toilet seat, and floor are always wet!

Abubuck is our driver and guide the next few days.  Young guy 26 with two young kids. He picked us up at 7PM tonight to take us to dinner.  His favorite restaurant in town, maybe the only restaurant!  Locals only, but very pleasant.  Really, only choice for the menu.  Salad, soup, rice, chicken or meat, beans.  Gloria went vege, I sampled the chicken.  All very good, I think the chicken was very fresh.  Cost, including a bottle of water was $4 per person.  Abubuck just finished a friend's 4 day wedding celebration, so he didn't eat, he just sat at our table and talked to us.  He is very attentive.

This picture is a classic.  Not sure what it means, but one I had to get.

 

Was does "LOCAL HANDCRAFT" really mean??